This paper presents a 11-day experiment conducted at the high-energy dissipative beach of Mataquito, Maule Region, Chile. During the experiment, offshore significant wave height ranged 1-4 m, with persistent long period up to 18 s and oblique incidence. Wave energy reflection value ranged from 1 to 4 %, and results show that it is highly linked to ...
In the nearshore, describing the complex individual wave dynamics remains a key challenge. In this paper we test the ability of the Radon Transform to produce estimates of individual wave celerities and to separate incoming and outgoing waves conserving the temporal characteristics. The Radon Transform is a projection of a two-dimensional field int...
In the nearshore, describing the complex individual wave dynamics remains a key challenge. In this paper we test the ability of the Radon Transform to produce estimates of individual wave celerities and to separate incoming and outgoing waves conserving the temporal characteristics. The Radon Transform is a projection of a two-dimensional field int...
A new remote sensing video-based method for measuring rapid variations of the bed elevation and free-surface in the swash zone is tested on a steep reflective beach at Grand Popo. The key assumption is that the free-surface has a distinguishable optical signature with respect to the bed level. This new set up enables a high frequency description of...
In the nearshore, describing the complex individual wave dynamics remains a key challenge. In this paper we test the ability of the Radon Transform to produce estimates of individual wave celerities and to separate incoming and outgoing waves conserving the temporal characteristics. The Radon Transform is a projection of a two-dimensional field int...
A water mass analysis of the Coral Sea thermocline waters provides a description of their distribution, pathways and mixture based on recent oceanographic cruises in this region of strong western boundary currents. The Optimum Multiparameter method is used to determine the relative contribution of core water masses based on their measured temperatu...
In this study, we document and interpret the characteristics of the Intra-seasonal Kelvin wave (ISKw) in the Pacific over the 1989–2011 period, based on observations, a linear model, and the outputs of an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM). We focus on the wave activity during the Central Pacific (CP) El Niño events contrasting with the extraor...
L'étude de l'infiltration de l'eau dans le sol en fonction des états de surface a été abordée sous différents climats (Mexique, Equateur, Afrique du Sud, Thaïlande, Vietnam) en testant l'influence des déterminants physiques (gradient de pente, pratiques culturales) et biologiques (couvert végétal, ingénieurs du sol) sur l'infiltration. La simulatio...
In this study, we document and interpret the characteristics of the Intra-seasonal Kelvin wave (ISKw) in the Pacific over the 1989–2011 period, based on observations, a linear model, and the outputs of an Ocean General Circulation Model (OGCM). We focus on the wave activity during the Central Pacific (CP) El Niño events contrasting with the extraor...
