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Non-linear numerical model for surface and nearshore wave propagation / Modelacao matematica nao linear de ondas de superficie e de correntes litorais

Authors
  • Silva, Adelio Joaquim Rodrigues da
Publication Date
Jan 01, 1991
Source
OpenGrey Repository
Keywords
Language
Portuguese
License
Unknown

Abstract

A non-linear numerical model for surface wave propagation, which is able to simulate wave propagation over arbitrary domains, and an associated nearshore wave induced current model will be presented in this work. The wave model, which solves the Boussinesq equations, is able to deal with either regular or irregular wave propagation over an uneven bottom. In order to solve the problem of the flow at the boundaries, a suitable radiation condition was provided which is able to simulate both infinite domains and total or partial reflections. In order to generalize the range of application of the model an extension of the Boussinesq equations to deep water was developed. The nearshore wave induced current model solves the averaged velocity transport equations. The Longuett-Higgins radiation stresses play, in this case, the role of flow forcing condition. A wave refraction model generates the necessary input for the computation of the radiation stresses. In this model an initial guess of the surface elevations is based upon the linear theory and further modified, in shallow water, using the cnoidal theory, which is more suitable to describe the flow in this zone. The wave breaking computation is made by means of an energy dissipation equation, in which the energy dissipation rate is similar to an hydraulic jump. The equations are solved by finite difference methods, using implicit algorithms for stability reasons. The validation was made by comparing the model results both with experimental data and analytical solutions / Available from Fundacao para a Ciencia e a Tecnologia, Servico de Informacao e Documentacao, Av. D. Carlos I, 126, 1200 Lisboa / FCT - Fundação para o Ciência e a Tecnologia / SIGLE / PT / Portugal

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