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Length of Wave Records: A Numerical Model to Simulate Its Influence Upon Frequency Distribution of Wave Heights and Periods

Journal of Coastal Research
Publication Date
  • Geoscience
  • Geography
  • Ocean Science
  • Oceanography
  • Marine Science
  • Coastal Geology
  • Earth And Environmental Sciences
  • Wind Waves
  • Wave Measuring
  • Length Of Wave Recording
  • Method Of Sverdrup-Munk-Bretschneider
  • Wave Frequency Prediction
  • Computer Science


An attempt is made to numerically simulate wind wave records. An algorithm is chosen to compute the characteristics of a large number of waves from assumed wind conditions. In this manner a simulated wave record may reach several centuries, from which frequencies of occurrence of wave heights and periods may be determined. This is considered a wave record of "infinite" length. Afterwards, a record of wind waves of "finite" length is simulated, reaching a few months or a few years only. The frequency of occurrence of wave characteristics shall be different from those of the record of infinite length, due to the limited length of the record. The influence of the length of wave records may then be estimated comparing the frequencies resulting from different lengths of wave records.

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