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Coastal set-up and wave breaking

Authors
Publisher
Gauthier-Villars
Publication Date
Disciplines
  • Engineering

Abstract

Coastal set-up and wave breaking OCEANOLOGICA ACTA 1985- VOL. 8- N° 2 ~ -----~- Coastal set-up and wave breaking Sea leve! Wind wave Coastal processes Breaking Niveau de la mer Vagues dues au vent Océanographie côtière Déferlement Luciana Bertottia, Luigi Cavalerib a A.S.C.O., Via B. Pellegrino, Padua, ltaly. b C.N.R., Istituto per lo Studio della Dinamica delle Grandi Masse, San Polo 1364, Venice, Ital y. Received 2/5/84, in revised form 24/9/84, accepted 2/10/84. ABSTRACT A study of set-up was made possible by the availability of an interesting set of data. This included directional wave conditions and tide, as recorded at an offshore station, together with tidal recorditig close to the coast. Sharp discrepancies between the two groups of data were associated with the presence of waves running against the shore. The key point for modelling the phenomenon has been identified in the breaking wave. Various criteria have been tested and the results are discussed in the light of the physics involved. Oceanol. Acta, 1985, 2, 8, 237-242. RÉSUMÉ Élévation du niveau de la mer près du rivage et déferlement des vagues L'élévation du niveau de la mer près du rivage sous l'effet des vagues est étudiée à partir d'un ensemble de données relatives à la direction des vagues et à la marée en une station du large. Ces données sont comparées à des enregistrements de la marée à proximité de la côte. Des écarts importants sont observés et associés aux vagues arrivant à la côte. Le phénomène est modélisé à partir du déferlement des vagues. Différents critères sont examinés, et les résultats discutés d'un point de vue physique. Oceanol. Acta, 1985, 8, 2, 237-242. INTRODUCTION Set-up, i.e. the increase of sea levet at the shore due to incoming waves, is a problem of practical interest in coastal engineering. Its influence is not dominant, but is still large enough to require consideration. ' The theory was given in the early sixties by Longuet- Higgins and Ste

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